Play it again, Sam

Our first view of Casablanca was not encouraging, faced with grubby streets and buildings and lost souls shuffling or slumped on the streets. 

Hassan II mosque fits 80000 . . . imagine them doing Amazing Grace

Things picked up however, when we trekked through the medina and strolled the sea wall as far as the massive Hassan II mosque.  A great deal of both building and restoration is going on, including an ambitious sea front complex.

Rick's

Rick's Cafe was a stop for us, recommended in our trusty Lonely Planet, it was opened in the late 90s by a former diplomat and takes full advantage of its film namesake.  It is set in a much restored riad (Arab mansion built around a courtyard).  We were a bit startled at its upmarket decor and small army of well scrubbed staff, but never the less ordered a cappachino and spent a wonderful hour just soaking it all up.  (they show the film on the top level daily)

The food markets of Casablanca are worth noting.We bought a bag of oranges, or a kilo of strawberries or, Mike's favourite, 2 scoops of ice cream in a waffle cone, each for less than two dollars.

Essaouria is a gem although we had terrible weather.  It is promoted as an artsy center and it well deserves the rep.  Set in a story book medina, touristy shops sit side by side with the lettuce, oranges and cell phones.  The  medina is a managable size, wrapped tightly in its glorious walls.

Looking down into the courtyard of the hotel.

We stayed in a carefully restored riad hidden down a narrow ally.  At 40 dollars a bit pricey but well worth it.

We had to drag oursleves away from Essaouria, but that's not as hard to do if your destination is Marrakesh.  This is quite a different place.  First, everything is painted terra cotta, both old and new.  Like Casablanca there has been a lot of building , but very much with a nod to the traditional architecture.  The medina remains pretty much unchanged, but the true heart of Marrakesh is the fantastical Djemaa el Faa, the enormous centre square.  Early morning the snake charmers arrive and as the day wears on they are joined by musicans, henna artists, acrobats and a wide range of loonies.  By day rows of stalls sell fresh orange juice, dried fruits and nuts and all the usual tourist tat.  Come evening, chairs, tables and kitchens roll in and a row of restaurants appear.  It just oozes life. We were surprised at the number of young families out late at night. This was also the first time we couldn't get our hotel of choice and it took half a dozen tries to get a spot.

 We celebrated Jane's birthday at Narwama, an old riad filled with candles, ivory and brass. A fountain with a flame in the centre lit the courtyard. The food itself was a mix of Thai and Moroccan, accompanied by a local dry white wine.

Looking down on the tannery.

The world heritage medina in Fez was a lot of fun and we did manage to find a 15th century tannery; but twice we had to pay a kid to help get us out, and once out still managed to get lost.

The drive through the Rif Mountains to Chefchouan was quite beautiful. Orange and olive groves, turquoise lakes and rolling hills make this a great drive. Close to the town the hills turn into looming mountains. By mistake we only planned for one night here, but this is a definite jewel. The town is half way up the slope of a mountain with stepped cobbled passages.  Our hotel was pristine and the whole experience was delightful.

To Catriona

To Kimberly

As a little extra, we visited a garden in Marrakesh which Yves St Laurent had taken under his wing.  These are posters he sent to friends each New Years.

Tetouane and Tangier are the final stops for our African adventure and so ends our blog. We plan to do some editing when we get home, so if you are a follower any further notices will only relate to our editing. Thank you for keeping track.