Zim Zim Zimbabwe

On the morning of the 30^th we crossed into Zimbabwe, and, following a very lengthy delay at the border (copies in triplicate using mimeograph paper), drove into the Buvumba Mountains (meaning “Mountains of the Mist”). We camped at a crumbling colonial home run by a crumbling white family who had had a coffee farm before the land reforms. Watching this third generation family offered another view of the cost of colonialism.

We were both wondering if there would be apparent changes from our first trip to Harare 21 years ago. We knew about the repression and severe shortages, but the city and shops seem to be re-establishing. Zimbabwe now uses the American dollar as currency and they are tired looking bills to say the least. Theft is a problem and our truck was broken into with 5 of our group losing computers,cameras and money. We saw few travellers; two girls from our campground had one of their backpacks stolen while picking up a pizza.

Jane's bus story: Our favorite Harare adventure was catching the local minibus from the crowded city centre back to our campground. Our fresh faced driver ( at most early 20's) gave us the front seats, where we sat for 20 minutes as the bus filled . We thought the bus was full but it became clear they thought the bus had plenty more room. Finally we pulled out into the traffic ( after knocking one pedestrian three feet back).The driver turned to me and said “sorry mom” as he made a double u turn returning to our original spot to look for more passengers As we finally set off I was startled to see the driver take a drink from a small bottle stashed in the driver's door. The second time he did this he smiled again and said” you saw that” and explained ( in case I didn't know) “it's whisky”

We had two nights in an Outward Bound Camp ,close to Chimanimani. It is a spectacular setting with two natural swimming holes, a dramatic waterfall and towering mountain cliffs off set somewhat by rainy overcast weather. A highlight for Mike was a zipline starting 45 feet up a eucalyptus tree.

Following this we had two nights camped by Great Zimbabwe, which is a remarkable stone ruin. It is a world heritage site and as a dry stone structure is a rival to Machu Pichu. Not the same masonry skill, but the Inca would appreciate the scale and the graceful curves.

Last comment from Mike: Left Side Tourism: There are lots of places that I would love to return to. Jane, quite rightly, points out there are an awful lot of places we have never been ...so get over it. I think I have come up with a solution to this irreconcilable situation always look left. You see plenty but if you return there is still an entire side to occupy, and indeed to thrill you.