Hakuna Matata

Ruaha National Park was our next highlight stop.  The drive in was a rugged test for both our truck and its' occupants!  Breakfast was held in darkness, as our game drive was scheduled for 6:30.  Ruaha is Africa's second largest game park (Selus is first) and it is a jewel.  Mature baobabs are scattered everywhere (and they are very mature indeed - they can be as old as 2000 years - we were told the ones here are a spritely 1000 or younger).

  The hilly surface provided one breathtaking view after another.  22 years ago Jane had a guided walking tour which brought her up close to giraffes, and we were thrilled to see repeated groups as we travelled along.  Some were right by the road and one group had 2 very young calves. For such large animals they move with remarkable grace.

We did very well with lions as well.  First a pride of 6, lazing on an outcropping beside the road, and then a spectacular pride of 15, who were just polishing off the mornings' kill, a young elephant.  Pretty much just some skin and a couple of feet were all that was left.  This group featured 2 magnificent males, while the first had a rather scruffy-looking fellow that we thought was just getting established.  The driver for our group of 5 (and obviously feeling lucky) drove us within a meter of several, it was quite startling staring into a full grown lion's eyes from about 100cm away!

Elephants also featured prominently, occasionaly close enough that they flapped their ears in warning.  We saw group after group, some very close, some decoratively far away. There were lots of quite young so we guess so they seem to be thriving...another difference from our first trip. Mike says they won't miss the one the lions ate for breakfast.

As well kudu, eland, zebra, wildebeest, wild dogs (great ears!), monitor lizards, and a quick view of a family of banded mongoose.  They sit up and gaze at you with an uncomfortable intelligence.

And now?  We are in Zanzibar, that most exotic of islands.  There are some names that just do it all by themselves - Kathmandu, Istanbul, Bali, Marrakesh, and Luang Prabang to name a few. You may remember the tales of our very difficult trip across the Indian Ocean  22 years ago. This trip was entirely different beginning with an air con waiting room and it taking about a quarter of the time. The last trip we shared with perhaps 3 other travellers , where as this time 3/4 of the many passengers were tourists.

The winding, narrow streets of Stone Town, send you straight to med-evil times (but without the stuff thrown in the street). Our first visit we stayed at an old hotel which was very run down and almost deserted ( like much of the town). Jane was very interested in trying to find it again but neither of us could remember where it was , other than it had a view of the ocean. It is now known as Africa House and is a posh hotel where tourists meet for "sundowners". It was great fun to explore it again and easy for us to picture the girls having breakfast there.

 The street market in front of the old Portuguese fort is a serious trip, with the smells sublime. We actually ate there three times, enjoying the fish, the fresh fruit and a Zanzibar specialty a sort of pizza/omlette that is made while you watch.

  The last 2 days we were at Sunset Beach, which is on the north end of the island, and features probably the best coral sand beach and the most turquoise water we have ever seen.  We are back in Stone Town for one more night and tomorrow we begin our trek towards Arusha and the Serengeti.